10/17/2026
Lingerie Sewing Patterns: Panties and Bras Step by Step
Sewing your own lingerie is one of the best ways to build precision in pattern making. The pieces are small, the fit is demanding, and the result is a comfortable garment that no store will ever offer you in your exact measurements. With good underwear patterns and a little patience, you'll make panties and bras that fit your body and also put to use the scraps you keep in your drawer.
Essential Materials to Gather Before You Start
In lingerie sewing, the materials matter as much as the pattern. If the fabric or elastic isn't right, even the best pattern will fail. Here's what you need:
- Cotton jersey with elastane (5% minimum): ideal for simple panties and bralettes.
- Power mesh or stretch tulle: provides support in bands and cup linings.
- Stretch lace: for finishing touches and decorative details.
- Lingerie elastic: with a soft side (plush type) for leg openings, waist, and underbust.
- Ballpoint needle in size 70/10 or 80/12, and fine polyester thread.
- Hooks, adjusters, and rings if you're making a bra with a closure.
How to Choose and Adapt Panty Patterns
Panties are the best place to start. They have only a few pieces: front, back, and gusset. You can choose from several styles: classic mid-rise, Brazilian, boyshort, or thong. They all share the same basic structure, with differences in hip height and back coverage.
To choose your size, take three measurements: waist, hip (at the fullest part), and, if the pattern calls for it, the rise. Compare them with the pattern's size chart, not with your ready-to-wear size. If you fall between two sizes, choose the smaller one when the fabric is very stretchy, and the larger one if it has little stretch.
Step by Step: Your First Pair of Panties
- Cut precisely. Place the direction of greatest stretch horizontally, around the body. Use a rotary cutter or very sharp scissors.
- Attach the gusset. Sew the gusset (the lining) to the front piece, right sides together, using a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag.
- Close the back. Join the back piece to the assembled front and gusset, and sew one side seam. Leave the other open if you're going to add the waist elastic separately.
- Apply the elastic. Cut the elastic to 80–85% of the opening's circumference. Pin it in four places and sew, stretching it slightly as you go.
- Finish. Fold the elastic to the inside and sew with a zigzag or a triple stretch stitch so it lies flat.
Bra Patterns: From Bralette to Underwire Bra
Here it's wise to be more cautious. A bralette with no underwires or padding is perfect for getting started: it has few pieces and tolerates small fitting errors. An underwire bra with molded cups requires more precision, but it's also very rewarding.
These are the main parts of a structured bra:
- Cups, which can be made of one or several pieces.
- Side and back band, which provides 80% of the support.
- Center gore, which should sit flat against the breastbone.
- Underwire channeling, the casing where the underwire sits.
- Straps and closure.
The Key Measurements for a Bra
You need two basic measurements: the bust circumference (at its fullest point) and the underbust circumference. The difference between the two determines the cup size, and the underbust measurement defines the band size. Measure yourself without bulky clothing and keep the tape perfectly horizontal. Then compare with the pattern's size chart, and don't extrapolate from ready-to-wear sizes, because they vary greatly between brands.
Test Your Fabric Before Cutting
Always make a test version using a fabric similar to your final one. In lingerie, a two-millimeter error shows. Check these points:
- The cups should not wrinkle or leave empty space.
- The band should sit parallel to the floor.
- The gore should touch the breastbone without pressing into it.
- The straps should neither dig in nor slip off.
Write your changes directly on the pattern and transfer them to a clean copy. That way you'll have a customized pattern to use again and again.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Stretching the fabric while you sew, which causes rippling.
- Using elastic that is too stiff or too wide for the size of the garment.
- Forgetting the direction of stretch when cutting.
- Ironing at a high temperature on fabrics containing elastane.
- Skipping the test version when making structured bras.
Conclusion
Lingerie sewing patterns combine technique and creativity: with a good pattern, the right materials, and patience when fitting, you can create lingerie that is comfortable, beautiful, and long-lasting. Start with a simple pair of panties, move on to a bralette, and when you feel confident, take on the underwire bra.
Ready to get started? Explore our collection of lingerie patterns at allsewingpatterns.com and discover more pattern making guides for specific garments. Tell us in the comments what your first piece will be!
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